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Getting Around the West

Dutch Countryside Holidays: Parks, Walks and Autumn

  • 5 min read
  • The editorial team of Moy Valley Notes
A low autumn sun through bare beech trunks on a sandy path, a cyclist small in the frame and the path leading away from the camera
A low autumn sun through bare beech trunks on a sandy path, a cyclist small in the frame and the path leading away from the camera.

For a week in the Dutch countryside, the choice between a bungalow on a park and a detached house comes down to how much you want on site and how much you want to be left alone. A park gives you a swimming pool, a playground and a shop within a few minutes on foot, which suits families with young children. A detached house gives you a private garden, your own kitchen table and no fixed timetable, which suits walkers, cyclists and anyone travelling with a dog. Both are common in Drenthe and on the Veluwe, and the price difference is often smaller than people expect once you count the extras.

How do you choose between a bungalow park and a detached house?

Start with the shape of your day. If the plan is to be out from morning to late afternoon and to come back tired, a park is the easier base: the beds are made, the boiler works, and there is usually a small supermarket and a bicycle hire point at the entrance. If the plan includes slow mornings, cooking properly and sitting outside in the evening, a detached house earns its keep. Look at three things before booking either one: the distance to the nearest village with a bakery, whether the garden is fenced, and whether the house or the park allows dogs. A fenced garden matters more than a large one if you are travelling with a dog, and a house on a quiet lane can feel more remote than its address suggests.

Location is the second filter. In Drenthe, the useful line runs between Assen, Emmen and Hoogeveen, with the national parks and the dolmen sites spread between them. On the Veluwe, the choice is between the wooded edge near Apeldoorn and the quieter northern side around Nunspeet and Epe. A park on the edge of a village gives you shops on foot and forest within a short cycle; a detached house deeper in the woods gives you silence and a longer drive for milk. For a fuller picture of how the two options compare, including garden and dog questions, the Dutch-language magazine bungalow holidays in nature sets out the criteria side by side.

Which walking and cycling routes suit a family week?

A family week works best with two long days and four short ones. The long days can be a forest walk of eight to twelve kilometres and a cycle of twenty to thirty kilometres; the short ones can be an hour before lunch and an hour after.

In Drenthe, the Drents-Friese Wold is the reliable choice for both. The woodland is flat, the paths are wide, and the junctions are numbered, so a route can be shortened at almost any point. The heath opens up in the middle of it, which gives children somewhere to run without traffic. Cycling routes through the same area link the villages of Diever, Dwingeloo and Appelscha, and most of them stay on dedicated paths rather than road shoulders.

For something flatter and more open, the stream valleys south of Assen offer quiet lanes and small bridges, with water shallow enough to be interesting and not dangerous. The inland dunes near Kootwijk on the Veluwe are a different landscape again: sand, low grass and pine, with marked routes that are easy to follow and hard to get lost in. If you are cycling with children, keep the day under twenty-five kilometres and plan a stop at a pancake farm or a forest playground in the middle. That stop is what makes the afternoon work.

The dolmen country in Drenthe deserves its own half day. Hunebedden are Neolithic burial chambers built from large glacial boulders, and they sit in the landscape rather than behind glass. The route known as the Hunebed Highway runs roughly east to west across the province and passes more than forty of them. The largest, near Borger, has a visitor centre beside it. A short walk from a car park to a dolmen, with a picnic, is enough for younger children; older ones can follow a stretch of the cycle route between two or three sites.

What changes in the Dutch countryside in autumn?

Autumn is the season when the Dutch countryside becomes quieter and, in most years, more colourful. The beech and oak woods of Drenthe and the Veluwe turn from late September, and the heath goes from purple to brown through August and September before the trees take over. The light lowers earlier, which changes the shape of a day: a walk that started at ten in July now starts at eleven, and the afternoon is shorter.

Practical things change too. Some forest cafes and pancake farms close on weekdays outside the school holidays, and bicycle hire points reduce their hours. Campsites shut, but bungalow parks and detached houses stay open, often at lower rates than in summer. The weather is wetter and the paths can be muddy, so waterproof shoes and a change of socks are worth packing. On the other hand, the woods are empty on weekdays, the mushrooms are out, and the light through bare trees is the reason many people book an autumn week on purpose.

Short outings with children through the seasons

Spring is for lambs, blossom and the first cycle rides; the heath is still brown but the woods are full of birdsong. Summer is for long evenings, swimming lakes and forest playgrounds, and for starting early to avoid the middle of the day. Autumn is for chestnuts, mushrooms and short walks with a flask. Winter is for indoor museums, and for the few clear cold days when the woods are at their best.

A short outing does not need a route. A forest playground, a brink village with a church and a cafe, or a marked walk of three kilometres is enough. The brink villages of Drenthe, with their central green and old farmhouses, are good for an hour of wandering and a drink. In the Veluwe, the forest playgrounds near the main visitor centres are built for exactly this kind of afternoon.

What to check before you book

Check the distance from your base to the nearest supermarket and to the nearest marked route. Check whether bicycles can be hired on site or need to be brought. Check the dog rules, the garden fence and the deposit. Check the opening weeks of any park facilities you are counting on, because a swimming pool that closes in September changes the value of a park booking. And check the calendar: Dutch school holidays fill the parks and the popular routes, while the weeks either side of them are calm.

A week built this way, one base, two long days out, four short ones, and a dolmen or a stream valley in the middle, covers most of what the Dutch countryside offers without turning a holiday into a schedule.

Public source: the general points in this article follow the public pages at www.holland.com, checked before publication.